Building my own 3d printer

On this page I have collected what I am doing to build my own printer (up to 04-march-2018).
After studying a lot of designes I started to buy parts.
Currently parts are arriving from China, Germany, HongKong and Netherland.
As the summer approaches this project may be halted until after the summer.
Don't copy me because 'all is under construction' and nothing is final.
YOU WILL NEED a 3d-printer to make some parts.
    Inspiration, http://www.thingiverse.com:

  1. HyperCube 3D Printer by Tech2C, great example.

    Here are his video's: https://www.youtube.com/

  2. T-Bot Core XY Printer without any cross belt.

  3. SmartrapCore XL300

  4. Buying is cheaper: FolgerTech FT-5

    My goals:
  1. Buy as much parts, in aluminium, as is possible; avoid printed parts (less strong) if possible.
  2. Building space 20x20x30+ cm, upgradable to 30x30x40 cm
  3. Heatbed moves in Z-axis (up/down) using 2 lead screws with 1 or 2 motors (belt driven)
  4. Extruder E3D V6
  5. H-BOT but upgradable to stacked XY-CORE
  6. Use extruded aluminium profiles 30x30mm (20x20 will do also)
  7. ARM based controller board with LCD color panel
  8. 2 stoppers per axis, and an auto level sensor for the Z-axis with (optical) or BLtouch or...

    Part sources
  1. http://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Startseite DOLD
  2. http://www.ebay.com EBAY
  3. http://www.reprapworld.com REPR
  4. smoothieware.org
    http://www.instructables.com/member/dintid/ A step by step how to.
  5. http://www.123-3d.nl 123D
  6. https://www.mroshop.com/lp/bronzen-bussen.asp MROS
  7. https://www.rvspaleis.nl/bouten RVSP
  8. http://nl.aliexpress.com/store/1047297 MakerBase (MKS) ALIE
    , you can buy all here.

Note to the parts: I did not go for the 'minimum' amount, the amount is between (n), just safely more then enough.
✓ means part arrived.
Note: Before buying from China/HongKong studie the photos of the items thoroughly. Some parts are to thin/weak. Some parts arrive within a week other parts take up to 6 weeks.

    Parts
  1. ✓ DOLD: 12 mm rods for Y and Z axis, 450mm (2), 550 (4 but 2 is enough)
  2. ✓ DOLD: 8 mm rods X-axis, 450mm (2) [ ==> 400mm is sufficient ]
  3. ✓ DOLD: Precision acme screw RPTS TR 8x1.5mm, 450mm (2) ==> 30-50 mm to short to reach 40 cm height.
  4. ✓ DOLD: Trapezoidal thread nut ELRM 8x1.5mm right gunmetal D20L16 (2 but 1 is enough)
  5. ✓ DOLD: Endcaps 30x30 B-type, Nut 8 extruded aluminium (8)
  6. ✓ DOLD: Profile 30x30 B-type, Nut 8 extruded aluminium, 550mm (4)
  7. ✓ DOLD: Profile 30x60 B-type, Nut 8 extruded aluminium, 450mm (8) ==> a wrong delivery, I received 30x30
  8. ✓ DOLD: Angle 30x60 B-type, Nut 8 extruded aluminium, connector with mounting kit (10)
  9. ✓ DOLD: Angle 30 B-Type, connector with mounting kit (32)
  10. ✓ DOLD: Profile 20x20 I-type, Nut 5 extruded aluminium, 400mm, for the bed (4)
  11. ✓ DOLD: Hammer nut B-Type nut 8, M5 (50) ==> I received only 20
  12. ✓ DOLD: Hammer nut B-Type nut 8, M6 (50)
  13. ✓ DOLD: Angle 20 I-Type, connector with mounting kit (8), ...?

  14. ✓ 123D: motors with 0.9 degrees/step (4), motor extruder compact with 1.8 degrees (1)

  15. ✓ EBAY: 42mm NEMA17 Stepper Motor Alloy Steel Mounting Bracket with Screw 5x5x5cm HPT (5)
  16. ✓ EBAY: 2Pcs Zinc Alloy Diameter 8mm Bore Ball Bearing Pillow Block Mounted Support KP08 (2)
  17. ✓ EBAY: 2pcs Aluminum Alloy SHF12 12mm Inner Dia Shaft Guide Support Linear Rail Router (4)
  18. ✓ EBAY: 2Pcs SK12 12mm Bearing CNC Aluminum Linear Rail Shaft Guide Support Economic UF (8)
  19. ✓ EBAY: 10x 3D Printer Timing Belt GT2-20 Teeth Synchronous Wheel with pulley (1)
  20. ✓ EBAY: 10x 3D Printer Timing Belt GT2-20 No Teeth Synchronous Wheel with pulley (1)
  21. ✓ EBAY: 10PCS GT2 Pulley 20Teeth Bore5mm+10M(33') GT2 Belt 3D Printer Parts RepRap Prusa (1)
  22. ✓ EBAY: 3D Printer Board MKS SBASE V1.2 32 BIT ARM Smoothieware + USB,1GB SD,XH2.54,TJC3 (1) ==> is it better to wait for V1.3 ? Its now available.
  23. ✓ ALIE: lcd/led RepRap MKS TFT32 touchscreen smart controller display 3.2
  24. ✓ EBAY: MK3 3D Printer Heated Bed - 3mm Aluminium PCB Heatbed - 12/24v Heat bed Alu M0BG (1)
  25. ✓ EBAY: 24 Volts power supply (1)
  26. ✓ EBAY: 2 x Oil Impregnated Sintered Bronze Bushing 8mm Bore x 12mm OD x 10mm Long (4)
  27. ✓ EBAY: 3D Printer All Metal J-head Hotend Extruder Nozzle-0.4mm filament-1.75mm RepRap (1)

  28. ✓ REPR: Miniature microswitch as stopper (6)
  29. ✓ REPR: Thermistor 100K pre-crimped wire (1m) (2)
  30. ✓ REPR: Compression spring - 20MM - OD 5MM (3)
  31. ✓ Heatshrink Black 20cm, 1.6mm bore, 0.8mm shrunken (60 cm)
  32. ✓ 3-wire cable, Red Black Yellow (1m 6)
  33. ✓ 4-wire cable, Red Blue Green Black (1m 5)
  34. ✓ MROS: Bronze bushings 12x18x20mm+24x3mm BRK-012018020 (8) (LM12UU and LMK12UU from EBAY)
  35. ✓ RVSP: bolts Inox M5 M6 x 12mm (100), cheaper by the 100
  1. The cheap chinese bearings are not quality bearings (LM8LUU or LM12UU or LMK12UU). Consider buying SKF or others.
  2. Bushings for the horizontal lift of the heated bed is a bad idea. Bushings get (b)locked easy. I changed to ball linear bearings LM8LUU.
  3. Bushings for the vertical movement can be a problem also.
  4. MakerBase SBase board is up and running with the TFT32 touchscreen and an additional bought board .
    The SBase board needs an micro SDcard with its config.txt (configuration) on it. The TFT32 touchscreen has also a slot for an SD card, from which you can print stand alone.
  5. I would not use 12 mm axis (Y) and 8 mm axis (X) again but instead use lineaire sliders

Change from a flat X-carriage to a standing X-carriage (easier access to extruder nozzle) and IGUS drylin lineair bearings (currently cheap chinees ones).

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