- Cut the drawing along the lines into pieces and assemble them (glue on cardboard or thick paper)
again when reading (doing) the numbers 2 - 8.
- Add coupe's (up to 3 cm, see book) at A-E (2x, red and green coloured part) and A-F (1x, only green
coloured part). Maximum coupe always at 1/3 from the top. Measure the length along A-F along the
coupe.
- Part A-F-F-A (aqua) is without coupe. Make sure that it is elongate (vertically), along A-F, to the
length of couped A-F. The length of A-A and F-F remains as was before.
- Add 1.6 cm hem (for a double folded one) at each side of the lines A-E, X-B, A-F, X-D, X-F and F-F
(all D-D).
- Replace line A-X and X-C (or A-C) with one single 1.6 cm wide strip. This strip, folded double, will
be used to sew a tunnel in between.
- Optional: curve B-C, C-B and C-C.
- Add 2.0 cm for a double 1 cm wide hem on B-C, C-C and C-B.
- Each colour is cut as one part (red, aqua, yellow!! and green!!) above and below line D-D.
- When sewing first sew the parts above line D-D and then below D-D together. Then starting from the
middle of F-F or X-X sew the upper and lower part together.
- Add tunnels for glasfibre rods (all 3 or 4 mm) first at A-C (2x) then at B-D-A-A-D-B. See Speedwing
in the book. I used a backside opening to slide the rod
in. The A-C tunnels end 8 to 9 cm before
they reach A but you must continue sewing the folded strip until you reach A. You need this space to
connect the C-A rod to the B-D-A-A-D-B rod with flexible connectors. The A-C tunnel is sewn in between
the folded double strip of A-C. The A-C tunnels are made from Dacron, the B-D-A-A-D-B tunnel from soft
webbing (gives better shape).
- Bridle points (melt nail through tunnel or push needle with bridle through it) start at 5 cm from B or C and go from B -> A and C -> A. They
are repeated every 25 to 30 cm such that they end nicely in A. Between A-A is also every 25-30 cm a
bridle point (at least 1 point).
- The bridle is simular to any normal kite. Take for each bridle line the average length, as used for
the NPW 5, plus 30-40 cm extra. All bridles are knotted together as done for the NPW5 with B1-B6 and A1-A12 bridle. Lift the kite by its upper bridle
(use 2 hooks -'distance X-X'- attached to the ceiling). Add the turbo-bridle, from the book, to the
bridle lines connected at A. From the outside to the inside adjust the bridle such that the kite hangs
almost horizontal and all bridle lines are stretched (tight)
equally. (On foto: bridle lines at C and B not connected, 4-liner.) Check on one of your
kites what the angle should be (approx.). A pro knows how to make the bridle adjustable so that the angle
with the horizontal plane can be adjusted easy.
- For a 4-liner only the 1st bridle line at B and C are used for the lower bridle.
- I think it is not wise to make C-C and A-A wider then 75 - 80 cm. And C-B maximal 120 cm wide.
Remember the kite must be flatter compared to the NPW 5.
- Think about repeating the square A-A-C-C several times left to right and up to a heigth (A-C) of 165
cm or 200 cm. Make shure that B-D-A-A-D-B rod keeps its round shape AND make sure that each rod towards
the middle increase in length (top at least +7.5cm, bottom +2.5 cm) compared to the first or previous
rod.
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