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ICELAND 1999

Here you will find the story of our journey through Iceland we made in august 1999

 

The preparation:

We started our preparations rather early by booking the ferry to Iceland because we had to make our journey in topseason,the ferry only sails once a week and because we wanted to have one out of 6 luxury cabins.

As a result of earlier experiences in Iceland two years ago,we bought some warm clothes and a small tarp for our tent to have some extra dry space for cooking.

The journey:

We made the journey to Iceland as follows:

 

We drove to Hanstholm, 1040 km from The Hague in Holland) where we sailed by Fjord-line to Bergen in Norway, a nice town to stay for a day(or longer),strolling alongside the harbour and fishmarket.Despite Bergen's rainy reputation we had warm and sunny weather.(just like two years ago).We spent the night in an apartment at the Bergen Inn in Laksevag,a 15 min drive by car from the towncentre. Tuesdayafternoon we left for Iceland on the ferry "Norrona "(operated by Smyril-line )

After a very calm journey we arrived at wednesday around noon in a cold and foggy Thorshavn on the Faeroer isles.The ferry remains for a few hours in the harbour and leaves again at 18.00 hr. The "Norrona" continues its journey sailing between the islands, offering a spectacular view on these rough islands.One thing you should not miss and that is the "Scandinavian buffet" ,dining with a view on the Atlantic Ocean for a reasonable price!

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Thursdaymorning 9.00 hrs ,after a very calm oceancrossing, we arrived in Seydisfjordur on the eastcoast of Iceland.The customsofficers are very busy only once a week so they take their time checking all cars thoroughly,with dogs but without any system.After one hour (leaving a lot of cars still waiting on the quay and even on the boat) we could begin our journey through Iceland.

The wheather was foggy and 12ºC.On the mountainpass it became a dense fog that cleared on the way down, offering a wonderfull view on Egilsstadir and the valley from Icelands bussiest parkingplace(the first one with a view and can be seen on everybody's photoalbum).Some 10 minutes later we arrived in Egilsstadir to fill-up money- and foodsupplies ( the next supermarket is 200 km away near Myvatn)

Over ringroad 1 we headed north and arrived at Myvatn at 17.00 on camping Vogar,a nice campingplace surrounded by lava.Unfortunately milions of little flies also liked the place so eating outside was a very risky enterprise.In the evening we visited Namaskard,a place with boiling mud and steam with the smell of "rotten eggs".On the way back we passed Grjotagja,a fissure with underground bathing rooms (now too hot for bathing).

The next morning we drove through a moonlike landscape to Husavik After some searching we found the museumfarm Grenjadarstadur where we were the only visitors.In Husavik we boarded the "Moby Dick" to do some whalewatching. Because there were a lot of waves it was difficult finding the whales but one "Minke whale" saved the show by jumping some 25 times in the air.This was the only whale we have seen but nevertheless a beautifull trip.Warm clothes are highly recommended because after 3 hours on deck it gets very cold.The boat moves a lot but nobody on board got seasick

Our journey went on and passed the Godafoss that we saw from 2 sides.The rest of the day we drove a lot and ended in Varmahlid and stayed there for 2 days on a camping near the farm at the entrance of the village On sunday we have around and visited the museum "Glaumbaer" together with a lot off Icelanders on a sundaytrip museumboerderij.The wheater is still sunny and temperature is 15° C.

After shopping and refueling(the next gasstation is 200 km away) we plan to drive the Kjollur route to the south.After hours on bad roads you get to Hveravellir with some hot springs.The campingplace is very crowded so the next day we leave early.

 Through some rivers we drove to Kerlingarfjoll, very nice mountains and splendid views but 4wd needed!

The next day we visited the Gullfoss,in our opinion the most beautifull waterfall in Iceland After that we saw Strokkur burst into the air lots of times and also the (extinct) Geysir.

Our next stop were the remains of the old farm Stong that was dug up from meters of lava ,some real 4wd roads to the Gjainfoss and we spent the night on camping Sandertunga, no showers,no hot water ,but nice places between the bushes and that's almost unique in Iceland.

The rebuilt Stong farm which is a museum was our first stop the next day and over a impressive building site for a dam we headed for Landmannalaugar.At first over lonely but very good roads and then they became real Icelandic roads,a very nice journey that ended just before the campingplace where the rivercrossing was too deep for our Daihatsu Terios.When you have little luggage it's possible to reach the camping over a small bridge but we returned the same day and ended as only guests at camping Leirubaki with a view on the Hekla.

Now the roads are getting less interesting (farms and grasland) but once back on the ringroad surroundings are getting better.

 

Thee Seljalandfoss and the Skogafoss are 2 impressive waterfalls.Visiting the Seljalandfoss take waterproof clothing to walk around the waterfall.In Skogar it's worth to pay a visit to the folkmuseum which has a very friendly curator, he also plays the organ well.Just a few kilometers away there is a nice road to the Solheimajokull ,a glacier in a recently active vulcanic area judging by the warningsigns along the road.Meanwhile it's raining at 13°C. For birdlovers Dyrholaey is a nice place to watch the puffins,the view from the lighthouse (narrow and steep road) is ,even in windy and rainy conditions ,marvellous.A little further on the ringroad there is a turnoff to Reynisdrangar,some nice basalt colums in the sea.  The day ended in Kirkjubaejarklaustur on the nice campingplace.

Over de Skeidararsandur,where in 1996 a vulcanic outburst beneath the glacier destroyed a large part of the ringroad, we drove to Skaftafell and visited the Svartifoss and the Skaftafelljokull. bekeken hebben.In weekends the very large camping seems to be overcrowded but now it was a pleasant place to stay(if you don't mind a long walk to the toilets)

The next place we visited was JØkullsarlon, a beautifull lake filled with icebergs that broke off the glacier and are waiting to melt here.With a floating bus (or a riding boat?)you can make a trip over the lake.If you walk on the shores of the lake take care when you enter the territory of young birds as their parents defend their youngs with their long and pointed beaks,an effective way of letting you walk a little further away. After having spent the night in Hofn we drove on a wet and windy day to Egilsstadir and had a sunny last day in Iceland here.At night we even had a bit of frost!

On thursdaymorning it was time to drive back to the ferry and wait in the once-a-week queue in Seydisfjordur After some steering excercises on the ferry finally parked at 2 centmeters distance from the side of the boat. The ferry left on time at 12.00 and Iceland said goodbye with a lot of sun.The weather was good so we could eat at the "Scandinavian buffet" again and arrived in Hanstholm on time on saturday 16.00.On the German autobahn some rain and sundaymorning at 5.15 back in the Hague.

 

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Last update: 04-03-2005

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